Deciding to go to Afghanistan alone was a very big decision. But, as with every expedition I plan, there is extensive research and preparation. If not for my gracious local hosts and the people that helped with special permission and transportation, I would not have been able to realize me diream of climbing, exploring and meeting the amazing people in Afghanistan. Yes, that is me in the middle photo attempting to blend in.
One of the things I look forward to the most on epeditions is immersing myself into a new culture. Life is about people and our global community. The people I met and saw in Afghanistan were kind, beautiful and amazing. I felt honored to be in their presence.
I find that when traveling alone, I am allowed much deeper into the lives of local people, compared to being with partners. Especially while solo in remote areas of the mountains, I often feel like I am taken in as a family member. Strangers quickly become like family. Hospitality os one of the most important things in life.
There is nothing like losing myself in another place where culture and history are absolutely differnet than that of my home. One of the things I always appreciate in these areas are the fresh organic fruits, vegetables, bread and meat. The food in Afghanistan was delicious and refreshing. Roaming the streets and markets is something not to be missed.
Of course, going to Afghanistan, I wanted to do my best to blend in with the culture. It is always my priority to respect the local way of life and try to not only make many new friends, but try and earn respect from locals and represent myself as an American with the highest quality possible.
Most of the expeditions I go on, while seeking out virgin Earth to find first ascents on big rock formations, often turn into discoveries of paradise I could never dream of. I was continually in awe of the utter power, beauty and mystery of nature in Afghanistan. This was my first visit to Afghanistan, and like many places I visit for the first time, I must go back again. I am already planning my next journey there.
As I traveled by 4x4 to try and find the towers and walls that lured me to Afghanistan in the first place, I had the opportunity to stop at many cultural and historical sites along the way. These old caves date back over 1,500 years ago. In the top photo I am standing below an old painting on the ceiling in one of the caves.
Afghanistan has a rich history, and the history of conflict and war is very well known. Here you can see an old outpost for air strikes. The bottom photos reveal white painted rocks that are landmarks for safe zones where old land mines were buried. Thousands of land mines were buried all over Afghanistan, and people are still being killed and injured by them as of this year. I was lucky to have a good guide.
Coming from what seems to be a modem, fast paced society, I often feel like have taken a step back in time when visiting countries like Afghanistan. While on my reconnaissance to find the walls and towers, we came across an old grist mill, or flour mill, powered by the run-off from a spring fed lake. Mills have operated from this water source for over a thousand years.
Finally, the storm clouds allowed a full view of the maintains, and I could sec the tips of huge rock towers from the window of the 4x4. We joined the local sheep and goat herders fortes, fresh meat and yogurt, then discussed my plan to head into the mountains. Soon we were walking amongst beautiful trek sculptures that rose above 15,000 ft. I made my basecamp war some of the masterpieces.
Year of the Tiger! I climbed two first ascents: In the bottom photo, on the middle (highest) and light towers, both above 15,000 ft. On my attempt of the left and third tower, heavy, wet snow and rain for 12 days shut me down, then I had to leave (part of the storms that flooded Pakistan in late summer). On one route, I experienced sinister, huge rock fall that cut my ropes into the core. Spicy to say the Feist! Many amazing virgin summits await.
As I was leaving the mountains in a vicious hail storm, two of the hom-tipped summits that had become my 'friends revealed themselves as to say farewell. The highest summit on the right allowed me the bor.. ofbeing the first on its tippy-top. Its summit was so tiny and loose, I clutched the top with my amis and legs as it crumbled away. The left summit and I were kept apart by weather, rock fall and time, but we will meet again. Oh, the sweet wilderness, its power, beauty and mystery.
Before I left Afghanistan, I had a wonderful opportunity to meet the first and only woman governor, Habiba Sorabi. She graciously allowed me to do a video interview with her. We talked about many things including war and the US military, life in Afghanistan and the bright future for people there. I mainly captured this journey with video, stay tuned for the compilation of clips.